This year too, finally, Milan and finally its crazy, shining and frenetic Fashion Week. I’m already on another planet. And this planet is called Grinko. As a matter of fact it was Grinko’s show that opened the Italian fashion week with its Spring/Summer collection that was presented at Palazzo dell’Arengario.
The designer decided to call the collection “Rave Rage Ritual”. This title refers to the gay culture and to fetish chic but also to the provocative and individualistic style of the 90’s. Therefore this decade reappeared on the catwalk and was reinterpreted with a sporty-luxurious touch. Sporty mostly as regards materials, that are soft and welcoming. For example: a casual double-toned grey dress with braces, the word Ritual written on it and a fish patched on the chest, paired with long gloves and black track shoes with a maxi plateau.
Do you have it clearer now? Be careful, though: sometimes, you get to see some pink, some light blue, plissé, or charming rouges… But us soon as such elements become black, they bring us back to the underground aesthetic. Crop tops are the absolute must-have. Super high-waisted slips, visible and coming out of clothes, are one of the main elements of the collection. Restructured elements can be destabilizing, but with style. Vertiginous asymmetries, daring braces that have to be laced up on thighs, bombers with a strategic zip thanks to which you can get transformable jackets.
Great love for a transparent light blue dress paired with opaque silver stockings. Wonderful. Moreover, what made these (successful) experiments even more interesting was this revelation by the designer: for some of the collection’s pieces they implored natural fabrics capable of changing colors with UVA rays.