The F / W 21 men’s fashion weeks ended yesterday with the last stop in Paris. Inaugurated by Ami on the evening of 14 and Off White on the morning of 15 January. Many names will alternate on the catwalk: from Valentino to Dior through trendy names such as Jacquemus, who parades with women and men, and JW Anderson. From Balmain to Louis Vuitton to Off White. “There are those who come, there are those who go” but there are also great returns with news: Clare Waight Keller brings the man Givenchy back and Vetements instead goes on the catwalk without the touch of Demna Gvasalia. Here a small recap of the fashion shows and trends with the latest news.
Off White by Virgil Abloh has been able to transform streetwear into a luxury product this time too, the greatest attention is always for sneakers, even when the occasion for a new fashion show and an entire collection of elegant or sporty clothes arrives, coats and sweaters. Off-White men’s sneakers for autumn winter 2020 2021 are the Office, in white leather with dark green details, but above all the long-awaited Air Jordan 5. The oversized double-breasted suits and the sweaters all with holes, through portholes or wide embroidery that leave the skin uncovered and the “incomplete” dress, are a reference to the name of the “The tornado alert” show. The bomber jackets are accompanied by shirts with a hem long, like tunics, reminiscent of an outerwear that we thought was forgotten and that is definitely making its reappearance: the cape. Both elegant and more street-style looks are accompanied by maxi palazzo pants that are soft and wide almost like skirts.
Valentino by Pierpaolo Piccioli is a hymn to the city coat and wardrobe, under a delicate key. Guided on the catwalk by the enchanting voice of FKA Twigs, who performed live wearing a lace garment and a mask of diamonds borrowed from the latest couture, the brand’s new man has all the characteristics of a shy hero. To tell us about his personality are the prints, which seem to be hand-painted and represent carnations, wild roses, stalks of wildflowers that focus on a single part of the shirts and coats up to climb on the back to become real intertwining between the hair of who wears them. The colors are black, white, brown and camel. Everything is in the canons of the city classic.
Kim Jones‘ Dior is an elegant and very formal man. The classic, well-structured coats worn with long shirts like tunics, which create a curious effect, between female haute couture and one of the great classics of the forgotten male formal, the tailcoat. The tailcoat effect is accentuated by the cockades that decorate some bomber jackets and coats like large medals, with lapels constructed in imitation of the spears of the tuxedos. Draping, inlays, precious decorations such as embroidery or paisley, and if the high fashion inspiration was not clear, even long opera gloves, worn under jackets, coats and sweaters topped up, to accentuate the natural folds in the looks. The Dior bag, the Saddle, made even softer and more practical for men.
Vetements, for the first time parades without the guidance of Demna Gvasalia, but does not disappoint us. Jens, leather boots and oversized jackets are the must of the collection. T-shirts with the words “No social media, thank you” or “It cost $ 0.00 to be a nice person” are ironic and provocative. The colors are basic: black, white and beige. The materials are leather, jeans and lots of other leather.
Louis Vuitton by Virgil Abloh is simply a surreal fashion show and a tribute to haute couture. Autumn winter 2020 2021 is suspended in a blue sky interrupted here and there by white clouds. To cross the entrance threshold of this imaginary catwalk there is a collection made of very precise sartorial proportions and extremely classic looks, very far from the oversized volumes and luxury streetstyle that Virgil Abloh has accustomed us to. There are two must-haves: The first is the rouche, which we find adorning the sleeves and bibs of shirts, the outer edges of coats and sashes that tighten the waist of cigarette trousers. The other is the cut, cutting like in some outerwear, which allowing a glimpse of the color of what is worn underneath assuming a very fragile appearance, or inlaid, to recreate the logo and monogram of the maison with a dévoré effect on the shirt. Interesting shoes, lace-ups and moccasins designed on the model of sneakers, more structured bags for small and large trips. The color palette is all on the cold shades of cyan, broken by black, which is often also total, and by a very rigorous fuchsia. Last are the cloud cyborgs, their faces covered in large sunglasses with mirrored lenses. Louis Vuitton has projected the shadow of René Magritte’s surrealist art onto his man, who suddenly became dry, long-limbed and dreamy.
Jacquemus creates a collection entitled “Anno 97”. A co-ed, woman and man, which today transposes the purity of Simon’s first creations. The first linen looks, proposed as a material also in winter, are a declaration of sensuality, with the body that exposes itself thanks to overlapping of natural materials in tone-on-tone colors, such as white and cream. The silhouettes are dry, with body-con skirts and micro tops for her, over jackets and wide pants for him. A collection that “slips” “Without forcing. The male wardrobe continues to explore the key and more classic pieces, such as the parka, the caban or the trench coat. Some pants and shorts are proposed in new materials in sustainable fibers, which are combined with denim treated with shades of colors The vest over the shirts, like the beige look with a checked pattern, the denim overalls lowered and used as a combo trousers with an oversized white shirt, the coach jacket with oversized trousers and a baseball cap ngsta rap. Different details can be found in both women’s and men’s wardrobes, starting with coats with rounded shoulders and volumes, or the down jacket with a bold design presented in treated linen and with padding created with recycled fibers. Men’s fashion 2020 already has its protagonist: the Chiquito bag by Jacquemus. Among the most decisive accessories of the last decade, the starting point of the trend of micro bags, it is presented for the first time in a male version (previously mentioned here).