While a heatwave sweeps across France, another kind of wave will be remembered as the symbol of this Paris Fashion Week: the one featured on the Louis Vuitton set for the Spring/Summer 2027 collection.
Indeed, amidst record-breaking temperatures that forced a rescheduling of shows—shifting some events to avoid the hottest hours—Pharrell Williams kicked off the first day of Men’s Fashion Week by bringing a colossal, vaguely provocative celebration of summer to the runway.
Although the brand’s creative director faced criticism regarding his choice—deemed unethical given the prevailing environmental and climatic conditions—Pharrell’s shows always feature a strong theatrical and performative element, which is integral to the stylistic identity he seeks to associate with the brand.
An undisputed master of staging, the multidisciplinary creative continues to transform his boldest visions into immersive experiences. This season is no exception. Featuring a life-sized recreation of a vast sandy beach—complete with towering, cascading waves—Louis Vuitton brought a surf- and skate-inspired menswear collection to the runway. It is an overt homage to surf culture and to Virginia Beach, the U.S. East Coast city where the designer hails from.
Some models take the narrative to the extreme, sporting branded surfboards or skateboards tucked under their arms.
Alongside raw-edged denim micro-shorts, loose-knit or sleeveless sweaters featuring palm tree embroidery, and surf suits fully adorned with the Monogram, there is no shortage of Pharrell’s signature elements—such as caps, bootcut trousers, and subtle touches of fine tailoring.
A marine theme and oceanic atmosphere run through the show, particularly evident in the imaginative accessories.
The Maison’s classic Keepall bags are embellished with details inspired by ocean treasures, while other creations feature trompe-l’œil shapes evoking sea creatures—such as a charming shell-shaped clutch.
Using a vibrant, contrasting color palette, the codes of surfwear are reinterpreted through Louis Vuitton’s exceptional savoir-faire.
Pharrell Williams plays with the intersection of urban and beach styles, bringing a touch of bohemian surfer flair to the runway without overlooking nods to skateboarding culture.
The new Combi sneakers—a standout runway piece that has already gone viral due to its unmistakable resemblance to Vans—confirm this trend. Available in various versions—such as red crocodile-effect leather or the signature Monogram canvas—these sneakers draw inspiration from the world of skateboarding, a discipline historically linked to surf culture.
