We’re at the end of New York Fashion Week. The city is still full of celebrities, artists, street style stars and photographers who are took part in the biggest fashion shows of the week from Thom Browne, Willy Chavarria, Rodarte, Luar and more. This season, the six days of Fashion Week feature the return of some familiar faces, including Rodarte and Anna Sui, who have not shown in New York since the Spring 2022 ready-to-wear.
Rodarte has been the one opening the dances, catapulting us into a fairy-tale, distant and dreamlike world. The mother of the two designers, who is an artist, has designed fairy tales and worlds in pastel colours, which have animated very light caftans and maxi gowns.
The show took place Inside the Williamsburg Savings Bank interior unveiling a series of black dresses featuring trailing sleeves, plunging V-necklines and floor-skimming hems. Kate and Laura Mulleavy were inspired by the world of fairy tales, bringing romantic creatures and neo-Gothic antagonists onto the catwalks, sometimes dark with very long veils, ruffles, sequined dresses and real fairy wings.
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On the same day, the journey towards surrealism continues at Collina Strada fashion show. With one of the most eagerly awaited shows of NYFW, the eccentric, visionary and subversive Hillary Taymou once again left the fashion week audience speechless: with the help of make-up artist Isamaya Ffrench, models walk the catwalk with animal prosthetics, such as dog’s ears, pig’s snouts, parrot’s beaks, on the border between grotesque and theatrical performance, pursuing a discourse that recalls the one already undertaken, albeit with various controversies, by Schiaparelli.
The idea is to once again bring attention to ecology and fashion to the catwalk with a strongly grunge collection centered on an overlayering of garments and patterns between checks, patchwork, tie-dye and drapé velvets.
Impossible not to mention the impeccable Proenza Schouler show, held on Saturday afternoon in Chelsea. “This is perhaps our most personal collection,” wrote Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez in a typed letter placed in everyone’s seat at the brand’s Fall 2023 show. In honor of their 20th anniversary in business, the two designers have opted for a sort of return to the origin by drawing inspiration from the women of their lives and their wardrobe.
“The collection began and ended with a series of images of women we know personally and have felt connected to in one way or another over the years,” the designers explained. These women include longtime friends and supporters like Chloë Sevigny, who opened the show. The collection features avant-garde silhouettes blended with a classic, muted color palette, sumptuous materials and cuts, and nods to the brand’s early 2000s style found in balloon-hem midi skirts and cropped cardigans worn unbuttoned at the midriff and paired with hipster skirts and modernized with chunky rubber sandals accessorized with knee-high socks.
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Another dive into the past remodeled in the present can be found in the Sergio Hudson collection, clearly inspired by the 90s looks and silhouettes, with a vast palette of fluorescent and lively colors, minimal but extremely glamorous and feminine lines.
An equally unforgettable praise to femininity is that of the Carolina Herrera fashion show in which the designer Wes Gordon wanted to enhance opulence and grandeur with a nod to the style of Netflix’s “the Empress”. On the catwalk of Carolina Herrera modern empresses advance like noble debutantes, dressed in flat colors and black and white contrasts.
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The celebration of the female figure continues with more sober and essential shades with the fall winter 2023-24 collection by Jason Wu whose inspiring muse is Marlene Dietrich poised between femme fatale and garçonne.
From Simkhai to Coach, from Heron Preston to Christian Siriano, the list of brands to keep an eye on these days is remarkable.
The week ends on a high note with shows by Thom Browne and Altuzarra on Tuesday and Willy Chavarria, Michael Kors and Luar on Wednesday.
