Milan Fashion Week ended yesterday. Days of style, trends and new tested fabrics. About a hundred events on the calendar including fashion shows, presentations and social events.
The big big brands such as Brunello Cucinelli, DSquared2, MSGM, Moncler, Iceberg, Diesel, Zegna, Diesel, Trussardi, Fay, Etro, Prada, Fendi, Giorgio Armani and Gucci were seen on the catwalk. Unfortunately the Versace list is missing since it was acquired by the giant Michael Kors, now it is parading in New York (article here).
Massimo Giorgetti for the autumn winter 2020-21 for the Man of MSGM has partnered with Dario Argento, the supreme director of Italian horror cinema. It was not the images of the scenes that gave life to the coats, jackets, jackets, jeans, sneakers but the idea of Silver’s color and passion for reds, purples, yellows, blacks. “Argento explained to me that he never shot a scene with colored lights but he always used colored fabrics in front of the lights,” said the designer.
For Paul Andrew, Salvatore Ferragamo‘s designer, the men’s fall winter 2020-21 collection completes a decoding operation of bourgeois men’s clothing.
Kean Etro’s Etro collection was a designer challenge with himself. He wanted to make every piece of clothing a protection and a message, without being literal. For example, the blanket refers to the fringes that finish the edges of the peacot and the coats, all similar to those of the plaid, and many checks of jackets and pants. The blanket of the blankets which is the spotted coat of the animal in nature and which, transferred to a long-haired woolen fabric, becomes a coat proportionate to the current measures (and takes the place of the most instagrammed piece of the parade).
Miuccia Prada strongly returns to reiterate the need for fashion to develop its own independent thought and proposes a man who takes advantage of contradictions to renew his appearance and his thought. The parade takes place in two twin squares, two courtyards of an imaginary palace, with two equestrian statues in the center, personally executed by Rem Koolhaas, the great architect responsible for the arrangement and renovation of the Prada Foundation. The tight-fitting and plaited knitted vests, jackets juxtaposed to the sides and boxy, as well as coats and overcoats, in very traditional fabrics or in sustainable nylon, printed shirts such as trousers to build pijama dresses, chiné woolen clothes , A-line or trapeze trench coats, coats in check fabrics typical of tailoring but enlarged, large sweaters with abstract patterns, tight pants with leggings, leather boots with high wedges, camel coats as traditional as irresistible, are the objects of the fashion show that express a desire to be satisfied immediately.
Silvia Venturini Fendi presents a collection that aligns the indispensable pieces of the male wardrobe but makes them transformed through divisibility and functionality so that they become timeless and sustainable. The accessories lose the gender connotation and acquire that of functionality, the jackets are enriched with pockets so that the garment incorporates the accessory, the cashmere is worked and inlaid to look like a fur and, coherently, the seasonal collaboration with the artist Anrealage is used to build transformer garments in photochromic nylon that changes color when exposed to sunlight.
Gentle, relaxed, soft is Giorgio Armani’s man. It has a tactile figure because it is an expression of a studied but not calculated elegance. Even when it goes on the snow. The result is wide and enveloping coats in soft wool, cashmere jackets designed on them as if they were shaped on the bust and which adhere to the pectoral muscles thanks to the high and double-breasted buttoning. Wide trousers, never sagging but always floating on the legs, the waistcoats worn naked on the torso that design “a handsome and sexy man“, silk velvet shirts with a crispy hand but with the comforting effect of panné velvet, high-necked sweaters with the tuxedo jacket. Fascinating colors that go from natural to burgundy, “the only red allowed in a male wardrobe” Armani.
Alessandro Michele brings Gucci back to the men’s fashion catwalks after years in which he had moved it to women’s. And it presents a collection that is an invitation to return to children. Here we have blue coats with a black velvet collar, short knee-length trousers, skimpy sweaters, floral blouses (a collaboration with the Liberty London prints), lurex sweaters, crystal necklaces that become collars, silver and metallic leather trousers in color, coats and jackets in light blue vichy. The hair combed like those of rockabilly to remember other times of the past in which a struggle for the liberation of thought was attempted. A collection that can also be defined poetic and poignant that does not fear to displace the current Gucci customers.