Appointed creative director in September last year, after Peter Hawking‘s brief and turbulent tenure, Haider Ackermann made his debut at Paris Fashion Week under the Tom Ford label.
Ackermann was already an established darling in the fashion industry, fresh from a stunning couture collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier.
The one who chose him was none other than the founder of his eponymous brand, who expressed his more than sincere approval with a congratulatory hug at the end of the Fall Winter 2025 show.
The handover of the scepter has actually been successful for Tom Ford, who may have found in Ackermann a worthy heir capable of managing and enhancing the sensuality and audacity that has historically distinguished Tom Ford over the years.
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In view of the show, Ackermann also wanted to tease the world of social media in anticipation of his debut, with a nude self-portrait by photographer Ethan James Green. Although the collection was undoubtedly richer in clothes than the promotional campaign, the creative perhaps wanted to suggest that the era of Tom Ford’s iconic images is about to return.
“I find both his womenswear and menswear equally compelling. He is an incredible colorist, his tailoring is sharp, and above all, he is modern.” said Tom Ford of the appointment of Haider Ackermann as creative director of his brand.
The collection was plenty of eveningwear.
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Leather dominated the first half of the looks, including a white crocodile top, a series of biker jackets and biker gloves. One-shoulder dresses were slit well above the hips and slim suits were illuminated by exciting color combinations. Starting the show with a predominantly black palette, the collection revealed a color exploration at every turn in the presentation of 56 looks.
The colors ranged from soft pastels to vivid acid yellows and electric greens: Ackermann described them as “colors of joy.” Cobalt blue peeked out from under silver, neon green lit up blush pink, and purple melted into chocolate brown.
“Tom Ford is a world of desire. It lures and seduces. To seduce means to bring someone close, drawing a gaze, enticing touch, stimulating senses, rewarding discovery with surprise and beauty,” the designer said in a statement after the show.
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