It was January 2023 when Sabato De Sarno took over as creative director of the Florentine fashion house Gucci, after Alessandro Michele who held the role for 7 years. De Sarno’s CV counts numerous big names in fashion such as Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino.
Right before the Milan fashion week, where Gucci itself will hold the opening show on February 25th, Kering announces the interruption of the collaboration between the maison and the young creative, who arrived two years ago with a task that was anything but easy: after the four-year period 2015-2019 which saw, under the direction of Michele, a notable increase in sales, the pandemic, which did not spare even the big fashion houses, caused a downward trend that continued until last year.
De Sarno’s stylistic revolution, radically opposed to the maximalism of his predecessor, although it convinced those who had already appreciated Tom Ford’s signature, simple and sexy, aroused general distrust from critics and the press. His fashion is essential, but not without history and details and, since the first fashion show, it is characterized by the colour Gucci Rosso Ancora as his signature, powerful and emblematic enough to also influence the beauty line.
De Sarno’s attention to detail also shows in the choice of casting of the brand’s fashion shows and shootings, to which he personally dedicated himself, and which often includes emerging models, new faces, particular combinations such as the mother and daughter couple the of the Ancora Notte collection (spring-summer 2024), the first of Sabato De Sarno dedicated to evening dresses.
The brand’s fruitful collaboration with ambassadors is also important: during the two-year period of the Neapolitan creative, Gucci made use of big names from the world of music such as Billie Eilish and Miley Cyrus together with Korean pop stars Jin (of BTS) and Hanni (of Blue Jeans).
The Gucci design team will bring the new collection to the runway, at the opening of the Milan Fashion Week autumn winter 2025-2026. Kering has not yet expressed its opinion on De Sarno’s successor, meanwhile Francesca Bellettini, deputy CEO of the group, greets the designer thus: «I sincerely thank Sabato for his loyalty and professionalism. I am proud of the work that has been done to strengthen the brand’s identity. Stefano and the new artistic direction will continue on this basis to redefine Gucci’s creative leadership and its sustainable growth” and Stefano Cantino, CEO of Gucci, declared: “I would like to express my profound gratitude to Sabato for his passion and dedication to Gucci. I sincerely appreciate the way in which he has honored, with deep commitment, the craftsmanship and heritage of the brand.”
