The first day in Milan was an incredible mix of different styles. Fay, for example, surprised us with his Gentlady, a kind of woman we haven’t seen much lately: androgynous, serious and very, very british.
The concept is clearly 90’s-inspired and resembles the the sober madness of those years and the eccentricity base on bright colors and geometric shapes.
The designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, as you might have guessed, largely borrow from menswear: a lot of oversized montgomeries, a lot of black and white, a lot of heavy fabrics with Scottish patterns, even on pleated skirts.
And, of course, jackets and coats with pronounced shoulders. Black and dark colors reigned, but there were also lime yellow, lipstick red, dark green and peacock blue. Moreover, a great piece was a bright and shiny white montgomery, short and original.
Fay’s collection offers almost no dress, and instead leaves room got daring mixes and matches. Everything is thought to be paired: outerwear, light shirts, produced according to the English tradition, short blazers that enhance the waist, miniskirts and pleated skirts, huge double-breasted coats to be worn with super skinny pants and skirts.
In antithesis with manly fabrics and patterns there are applications, that were the main characters of the night: studs as decoration pieces on leather, on fabrics or on bags, bustiers, cabochon rocks and crystals that enlighten the pieces of outerwear, and finally zippers on pants’s legs.