The prolific designer who has marked the history of the Celine brand has kept her promise and is back with the first collection of her highly anticipated eponymous label.
October 30th has been etched onto the fashion calendar in bold letters since the first of the month, when Phoebe Philo confirmed the launch of her brand’s debut line. The designer has finally created what is probably the most anticipated fashion line of this year; and it is exactly the masterpiece we expected. The 150-piece range is an exciting and mature evolution of her signature, confident and highly celebrated design, which has been almost lost since Philo left Celine in 2017.
It wasn’t until February of this year that the designer shared her brand’s release date (which was initially set for September and later moved to October), and waited until July to open registration on the brand’s website. However, the brand’s Instagram account, which boasts over 300,000 followers, remains empty and Philo herself has kept a low and silent profile as her brand’s launch gradually unfolds.
As expected, as well as its creator, the new collection is both discreet and luxurious in equal measure. Understated yet distinctly opulent, Philo’s debut is expansive, encompassing everything from outerwear and knitwear to myriad accessories, including shoes and jewelry.
It is not surprising that despite the prices not being exactly accessible, some items have already sold out.
In some notes, the brand specifies that it is not a standard fashion “collection”; rather, it is an “edit”. The debut line, titled A1, will be revealed gradually through December. The next edit, named A2, will arrive in spring next year, but Philo does not follow the standardized fashion calendar.
In the first release of A1, the color palette is rather reserved, rarely moving away from black, white, olive and burgundy tones. But in consistently pursuing its quiet luxury, Philo has still been able to give space to more disruptive design elements with voluminous structures, angular shapes and punk finishes.
With its brand, Philo’s goal is to “create a product that reflects permanence.” She’s done it once before, as evidenced by the myriad of fans who still wear their “Old Celine” pieces from the designer’s era at the brand. Now, however, we will be able to appreciate the novelty in her work, already known to be excellent.
Phoebe Philo’s first Edit is now available for purchase on the brand’s site, with prices ranging from $1,100 USD to $25,000 USD.
