Among the most anticipated events on the Paris Fashion Week calendar there it was. and there is no need to be surprised. No disappointments and everything magically in the right place for the presentation of Gaultier’s haute couture in collaboration with the designer Simone Rocha.
Between bows, lace, buckles, corsets, ribbons, tones as candid as white and passionate as red, the worlds of Jean Paul Gaultier and Rocha have not only met but have merged in a complex, delicate and feminine language.
The Spring Summer 2024 couture by Jean Paul Gualtier and Simone Rocha, staged at number 325 rue Saint Martin, perfectly matches archive pieces of the brand with the preppy grunge soul of the Irish designer.
Simone Rocha overturns the icons of the enfant terrible of fashion, reinterpreting them in her own way. Although Jean-Paul Gaultier’s archive is immense, the young designer lingers in particular on two “fetishes” dear to the French designer: the mythological guêpière with cone cups worn by Madonna which officially became part of global pop culture, and the marinière style, another myth of Jean-Paul that Simone transfigures into waving blue silk bows on tulle, combined with sailor hats softened by many mini-bows.
There was no shortage of those emphatic and theatrical eighteenth-nineteenth century references such as panier, tournure, guêpière and crinolines that Simone Rocha transformed into very sensual and delicate dresses in organza and see-through tulle, or into contemporary daily uniforms with tattoo patterns so dear to Gaultier.
With its charms and its romantic and simultaneously sensual elements, Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Spring Summer 2024 Haute Couture by Simone Rocha also and above all highlights an incredible sartorial ability and a strangely balanced stylistic alchemy. A shared love for dramatic fashion, made of malleable icons and symbols, is clearly visible.
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Not even some of the more extreme details were out of place, such as the vertigo-height plexiglass sandals, the giga-platform or the straps left dangling on the bare legs for a politely bondage allure. Everything plays a role from head to toe, including the tufts of hair that sporadically peek out from the aforementioned sandals or wrapped in circular strands shaped like earrings.
Making its own scene at the Haute Couture Spring Summer 2024 presentation of Jean-Paul Gaultier by Simone Rocha was its front row too.
The very elegant Kylie Jenner and Kelly Rutherford certainly couldn’t go unnoticed. Between applauses, smiles and some curious elusive chatter, They gave us a real-life remake moment of Gossip Girl.
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