The most striking announcement of these last few days is undoubtedly Pierpaolo Piccioli‘s farewell to Valentino. After 25 years at the helm of the Italian fashion house, the designer leaves a very heavy void within the brand.
Despite the reactions of amazement that followed the news, the decision had already been formalized in agreement with the label. Meaning that his Fall 2024 collection, presented during Paris Fashion Week in February, marked Piccioli’s last production for Valentino.
In the following days the fashion house had to deal with Piccioli’s absence, and therefore chose to cancel its next fashion shows. “Following the latest organizational announcement regarding the creative direction of the Maison, Valentino confirms that it will not present its next men’s and Haute Couture shows in June 2024,” the company wrote in a statement on Monday. “Creativity will continue to lead the Company as a key pillar, shaping new future collections in both women’s and men’s ready-to-wear and Haute Couture, elevating the brand’s DNA, its iconic codes, and unrivalled Italian heritage.” Added the company.
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The decision to cancel the next fashion shows foreshadows the possible intentions of the brand. Valentino could have continued the men’s and couture collections by entrusting them to the internal team (as often happens at fashion houses for temporary periods), developed using Piccioli’s vision. However, the delay suggests that the presence of a new designer who will start from scratch to work on the spring/summer 2025 women’s collection is already being contemplated.
Not surprisingly, when Piccioli’s departure was confirmed, the label said that a new creative direction would be “announced soon.”
Among the rumored favorites is Alessandro Michele, notoriously available after the end of his very important contribution to Gucci.
Considering Michele’s non-compete agreement expires this month, the timing couldn’t be more perfect. Additionally, Michele is already in a relationship with Valentino CEO Jacopo Venturini, who previously served as executive vice president of global merchandising and markets at Gucci.
However, Maria Grazia Chiuri of Dior was also mentioned among Piccioli’s possible successors who “could also be thinking about a return to Rome”, with Valentino or Fendi. Meanwhile, fans of the brand also put forward their proposals, pushing for creatives such as Sarah Burton or Haider Ackermann.
All that remains is to wait for some official news from the brand.
