We thought we would have to wait until September Fashion Week to admire Alessandro Michele‘s first work for Valentino, but apparently the designer had other plans in mind, putting an end to the wait with an unexpected debut.
The former creative director of Gucci left his previous role in November 2022 and was chosen by Valentino to breathe new life into the brand after Pierpaolo Piccioli’s decision to resign from his 25-year run.
Only a personality like Michele would be able to fill such an important void and since the news was announced, fans have been eager to see how the acclaimed designer would translate his vision, now considered a symbol of Gucci, into a new fashion house.
Just yesterday, Monday 17 June, during Milan Fashion Week, Valentino surprisingly released his new Resort Spring 2025 collection, thus making Alessandro Michele’s debut work coincide with the day on which Sabato De Sarno unveiled his collection Gucci SS25.
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A controversial but also decidedly interesting move.
What immediately caught the eye was obviously the absolute recognizability of Michele’s creativity, which still continues to be associated with Gucci.
But ultimately, there is little to question. Every great designer brings his sensibility with him wherever he goes. Sensitivity that Alessandro Michele was able to dilute, without arrogance, in the study of archive garments and Valentino’s stylistic codes.
This collection undoubtedly marks a new starting point for the house, as well as suggesting Valentino’s potential desire to get closer to Gucci’s clientele.
The vast offering of 171 looks presented on the catwalk brings Michele’s typical maximalist and eccentric style back to life.
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With inevitable 60s and 70s influences, this collection wants to present Valentino to us in a triumph of vintage glamour: large coats with fur trims, patterned dresses, layered skirts, formal suits, elaborate accessories and an abundance of pearls.
Prints, patterns, eclectic layers and frivolous details bring a worldly touch, but also with a strong bohemian vibe, transforming classic styles into fresh and fun new looks.
In an interview regarding his first collection for Valentino, the designer stated: “Garavani was rather a maximalist, even in the 70s when he was at his most streamlined. There was always a very Roman sense of opulence and excess to his work distilled through an obsession for beauty.”
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